Welcome to  Llamas!

A llama needs a well-fitted and flexible halter.  It should fit high on the bridge of the nose close to the eyes and high on the back of the head.  A sloppy halter that slides down the nose can injure the soft cartilage in that area and interfere with their breathing..  The nose band should have about two fingers' width under the jaw to allow for chewing food.   Also needed is  a six to eight foot  flexible lead rope.  Remember to remove halters from your llama when in their own pasture. Leaving them on can lead to them getting caught on something that could cause injury.

 Feed for llamas is based on a good quality (preferably grass hay in Illinois) hay.  They are very food efficient, needing only 10-12% protein in their diet.  Alfalfa is not recommended, due to its high protein and energy level.  While we are inclined to think that high-protein and high-energy food should be good for llamas, it is important to know that it has been associated with heat stress in warm weather.  When grain supplements are used, 10% protein is sufficient (pregnant and nursing females and growing youngsters may have up to 14% protein in their diet).  These grains are fed at a rate of 1 - 1.5 lbs. per day, depending on the age and activity of the llamas.  Overweight llamas can have both birthing and heat stress problems.    You will hear a lot about heat stress in llamas, but with early preparations, you can avoid this.  Remember humidity is just as bad as temperature.  First - SHEAR, SHEAR, SHEAR!  This is a true act of kindness for your llama in Illinois.  Imagine yourself wrapped in a wool coat this summer - that’s what your llama is facing.  Either hand or electric shears work well.  You can touch up mid-summer  with the show animals.  Shearing is necessary - many a Grand Champion has won in sheared form.  Plenty of shade, fresh water and fans should round out your spring preparation.  During the peak of the heat, electrolytes can be added to some of the water buckets, but fresh water should always be available.  Change the water daily and keep both in the shade so they are cooler and more inviting.

Hosing down your llama's legs and belly is cooling, but not the body wool as that will trap body heat in the wet wool.  Shaded, wet sand pits may also be helpful for natural cooling. High volume fans will be a focal point of your lamas' afternoon, some owners also use evaporative coolers in loafing sheds without adding much expense to their electrical bills.  Even 'kiddy' pools filled with water can provide relief for your llama.  If you think your llama is showing any signs of heat stress such as lack of appetite, lethargy, staggering, locked leg walk, or glazed eyes, call your vet immediately.  It is important to nip the problem in the bud.

Llama maintenance is relatively basic.  A regular inoculation and de-worming program can be set up according to requirements of your area.    Toe nail trimming will keep llama feet healthy.  A light brushing and removal of matted wool in the spring allows better ventilation of body heat during the summer months.  Adult males develop teeth known as fighting teeth, and these are often removed after three years of age males to prevent injuries.   

Babies are such fun after waiting the 340-360 day gestation period.  We recommend you plan your breeding program to avoid summer births between mid-May and late September.  Generally studs are removed from pastures with females to avoid a summer re-breed if a female slips a spring breeding.  Fall or winter babies should be weaned before the heat sets in to avoid over-stressing the moms.  Mothers should have the inoculations and deworming about three months prior to birthing and babies generally get their first shots three to four months after birth.   The ILLA  library has excellent information on both breeding and birthing.  The library is available for members to use free of charge.  The books and videos explain field testing females for pregnancy, blood tests, birthing and how to care for a new baby.      While exciting, a new baby brings with it a lot of important tasks.  You will need to do things like checking to make sure baby is up and nursing within 30-90 minutes and dipping the baby's navel in a Betadine wash.  Most babies are born during the daylight hours with the majority between 9 AM and 4 PM. .  Keep the vets phone number handy when a due date gets close, along with a few birthing supplies just in case your mama lama does need help.  If the mom has been in labor all day long and still has not delivered by early evening, a call to your vet may be in order.  If the baby is a but sluggish getting up, a gentle rub-down with a clean terry towel may be all the stimulation it needs to get up and start nursing, but do give nature a chance to take charge.

Baby llamas need to be raised by their mothers and within a herd in order to learn all about being a llama!    The herd structure is critical to a young llama's  proper social development - they need the company of other llamas during the first 5+ months of life.  Llamas will always be happiest when they have the company of at least one other llama.  Please NEVER purchase a lone, bottle-fed llama of either sex.   Any llama sold away from its mother before the age of 5 months is in great danger of becoming imprinted on humans, especially if it has no other animals for companionship.  This can lead to the llama becoming aggressive toward humans as it matures.  The situation is most dangerous in male llamas but is a concern for females as well.  Leave the baby in the care of it's mother until it is weaned!  The average weaning age for llamas is 5-8 months.